from a snowy walk in the Rattlesnake, Missoula, Montana

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Day 2: hello mountains

After walking around with a smile on my face (being in the mountains tends to make me smile nonstop) I tried to track down needed necceties aka coffee and food. In my rush last night I decided not to stop in Masuru....

After sweet talking the kitchen staff into letting me heat up water (thank god Sesotho is a cousin to Setswana) I the mothers milk (aka coffee) while overlooking a beautiful landscape. 
Then I hit up the general dealer...who would have thought that Lehututu would have a better stock?! Since canned fish doesn't seem appealing at 8am I settled on unrefrigerated yogurt (it's fine....?) and cereal. 

I decided to go on a morning hike--the great thing about Malealea is that they hire villagers to do the tours as part of their community trust program. My trusty guide Lucky and I set off. We were going to do a '5 hour hike' to the Bushman paintings and the waterfall. 

Throughout the hike Lucky would wait patiently as I snapped photos and tell me about little cultural tidbits. 

A few views from our journey

The hike was spectacular. Words can not describe the beauty of Lesotho. 

Our hike ended up to be more a 6 hour journey...I must say... Hiking up hill and down hill on yogurt and cereal is a recipe for feeling faint...and bless Lucky's heart he patiently waited for me...and fetched me water when I ran out. 

My dirty and sore feet are propped up on a log and I am drinking a Maluti (for you Granny!)
Life is good. 

They have a saying in Lesotho which is peace rain and prosperity...here is to peace and prosperity! 

The next chapter...RPCV day 1

It is all very surreal. 

I did last minute packing in the morning. Said good bye to my wonderful landlords and was off. Three years of my life crammed into two very stuffed bags! 



Sitting at the airport--I felt like I wasn't in my body. I wasn't about to get on an airplane and leave my life behind. Botswana has been my world for the past three years. My American life is a vague memory. 


I flew to Johannesburg and rented a car to drive to Lesotho. Just me and the road. It was a beautiful drive through Free State. Very much like Montana and the open sky of the Western Uniter States. I can see why the Boers came up to settle in this part of Sourg Africa. 

Following my google map I made good time from Joburg to the Masuru board. Which I would just like to say was the most painless crossing ever! You don't even get out of your car!!! 

It was a sign when my GPS stopped working and I wound around mountain roads and battled other chaotic drivers. As night fell I only had 40 kilometers to go...and the road conditions decreased. My last 15 or so kms were spent bumping over a rutted gravel road following a man in a tractor praying he was  actually taking me to the lodge. 

The night gaurd took me to my room--tired and hungry I went to sleep. As I fell asleep I told myself that I would sleep in till at least 9.....
 
As I opened my eyes the next morning...it was 530 am! 

My frustration quickly left when I looked outside. 

Friday, October 2, 2015

the long road in

I took a mini pilgrimage to Lehututu, a final good by before I leae Botswana. We were taken to site--the three of the new PCVs placed in the Hukuntsi area. Three girls and their two years worth of possessions and a puppy crammed into the back of a pickup truck.

I remember driving down the 5 kilometer road for the first time. Seeing the expansive salt pan that seemed to go on forever.

I think it was the longest 5 kilometers I have ever traveled.


We came before the rains. Before green and the yellow flowers that erupt everywhere. Before the cows get fat and baby goats play.



I grew to love the ride in, my house was in the center of the village just a short walk away from the bus stop. Every time on my way in I would look for my little yellow house with colored curtains. And smile because I was home. 

This time in--it was no different, except it wasn’t my little yellow house with colorful curtains. And the rain had come.

Nuances of brown

On September 14, 2012 after landing in Botswana a mere 30-some hours earlier I journey from Gaborone to Kanye.

I still remember the looking out the bus window and feeling a myriad of emotions wash over me. Depression. Excitement. Dread. Joy. Nerves.

I remember looking out in the brown scraggly bush of a landscape wondering how I would ever grow to love a place that was brown.

Telling myself to love the brown. See the beauty in your new home.

Three years later almost to the date, I made the same journey from Gaborone to Kanye...




It isn’t just brown. Greyish-brown, green-brown, bone-brown, sandy-brown. There are so many nuances in such a simple color.

There are so many nuances in this simple thing I call my life.

I have grown to love Botswana and all its brown. There is something rich in all the brown. In all the scraggly bushes, the people, dried up stream beds, hard packed sand in the east and the deep red sand of the Kalahari. When I depart, I hope that the nuances of brown stay with me and over time more shades appear.

Saturday, August 1, 2015

Time--its irrelevant until its over

Time is a weird thing...I think it is weirder in the Peace Corps life than it is in my every day life. I say every day life, like I am not living a real life here. My life here is very much real--I work, I have (had) friends, I am a person here just as much as I am in America...That could be part of the problem...My life is split into two Botswana and America.

I digress....

All of a sudden it is August 1st. (WHATT??!?!?!??!)

I can no longer tell people I have been in Botswana “2 1/2 years” since its almost 3 years.

It seems like I have just moved to Gaborone. Nope. That was almost 10 months ago.

I feel like I have nothing to show for it. That is a complete lie.

I feel like a child. When in fact, I am an almost 29 year old woman who has done some pretty amazing things in these short years.

A brief recap on the past 10 months:

  • The Leadership Program (that crazy one I stayed on to run) opened its doors! It was a fighting up hill battle all the way and only took about six months to do. But I did it! We opened our doors in April and we have 32 enrolled youth. It has been unbelievable seeing them change and grow. Each of the participants are coming into their own. Sometimes I look at them and don’t want to leave....
  • It is August! Which means, all of my close friends have left Gaborone...It was very bitter-sweet seeing them off over the past few months. But this also means, my time here is almost done! December 11th. I will blink and it will be here. 
  • Some really amazing projects have just fallen in my lap! In Lehututu is seemed so hard to get things started, one of the benefits of being at such a connect organization is that people see us out! Lucky me I get to help coordinate! 
  • The other projects that I am coordinating are swimming along! I am keeping busy which is what I wanted! 
  • I went from missing “the village” everyday, to not at all. Not to say that I don’t miss it, I very much do...That life seems so removed from me. That chapter of life where all the really hard aspects are just a cool story--hey remember that time I lived without furniture for 18 months? Or electricity for two years....
  • I went on a rhino capture for conservation--of course, I have I can’t find the pictures that I uploaded from a friends camera of the trip, the pictures magically disappeared in my iPhoto...It was one of those unreal experiences. I am so glad that I had the opportunity to go on it! Perhaps if I ever get the photos I can write a blog about it. 
All along, I have said once I graduate, I will start the job hunt. Well, now that I have some initials behind my name and I have 4 1/2 months left--it is that time. Job hunting seems very overwhelming and scary! When I pull up job servers to look...this feeling of panic comes over me. Where do I want to live? What do I want to do? AHHHH....so, usually, I don’t get very far. I am very sure that there have been points in my life where I felt like I had no direction. The world is my oyster right now. Everything I own is packed in my parents basement or will be on my back. Picking that one direction...seems toooooo much right now. 

With that being said, I am in the middle of a book that I need to finish....


Thursday, May 28, 2015

Commencement Speech


Dumela, Hola, Salam or simply hello. I cannot express how happy I am to be here today, I traveled through three continents over three days to be here today. 

It seems like just yesterday I was sitting in Scriber Gym surrounded by a group of strong, intelligent and passionate women soon to be scattered around the globe. I can only speak for my experience in the Peace Corps, but I suspect my words will ring true to my sisters sitting here today.

(part of) Cohort 8! 
I have wanted to join Peace Corps since my freshman year of college, I vividly remem
ber meeting a recruiter and deciding that I wanted to one day become a Peace Corps Volunteer, however, I cannot at this time articulate why my reasons why. I suspect it is because Peace Corps has changed me.

I am in the process of completing my third year as a PCV in Botswana. I chose to extend my service for an addition year, for I felt like my time in Botswana wasn’t done. I have been blessed to see both beautiful and complex sides of Botswana. Botswana is a world of dichotomies, a clash between traditional culture and modernity. Which couldn’t be truer about my Peace Corps service. As 21st Century PCVs, gone are the days of only communicating by snail mail and yearly phone calls home. We live and work in communities racing towards Westernization. Balancing my service straddling two worlds at times was harder than learning Setswana or navigating cultural differences.

My first two years were spent in a small village in the middle of the Kalahari, hours away from grocery stores, banks or anything the western world would consider as civilization. My house was little more than a glorified hut, I didn’t have electricity and water was scarce.  There were weeks where I only ate potatoes and onions because that was the only available food and there were weeks where I feasted on the freshest mangos, avocados and care package goodies.

I arrived in Lehututu late on a Friday afternoon; my belongings were brought in my students and piled into the middle of my house. One by one I was greeted by villagers and dusk settled in. My house was getting darker by the moment, my candles were still buried in my pile of belongings. As the darkness settled in, a strange feeling came over me. It took me a while to realize what it was—it was silence. The defining silence of the village forced me to confront my thoughts and be okay with silence. My generation of America is never unplugged or silent; the ability to sit on the porch and watch the world go by is lost art.

At some point in time, every volunteer dreams of the accomplishments they will achieve during their service. Early on I decided that I wasn’t going to be the volunteer who put in a 1000 pit latrines, start a preschool or a coffee exchange. I decided that I would be here for relationships. Being placed at a school, the best thing I could do was be a role model for my students. Over time, my relationships with the students grew, students would stop by my house just to say hello or ask for advice. My students didn’t just learn from me, I learned from them as well.

The parents 
One day, I was having a particularly bad day—one of those “why did I give up my life in America days” as I was walking to school and wallowing in self pity a student came up to me. She had been looking for me. Talking was the last thing that I wanted to do, however I listened to her. She had just been diagnosed with HIV, which she had contracted while at school. She didn’t know what to do and she needed my help. I was humbled that she trusted me, however I felt ashamed. While I was felling sorry for myself about meaningless matters, while her life was forever changed. In helping her navigate her new diagnosis, she taught me a new meaning strength and acceptance.

In Botswana, I am the third sex, an outsider. As an outsider I have freedoms that other Batswana and women don’t posses. I have the power to speak, when others feel they must remain silent. As a woman some traditional cultural norms didn’t apply to me with my status in the village. As hard as I tried to integrate and not be treated as a guest, I often sat at the head table with the tribal chief or was served before other women. With this power comes responsibility. I was conscious of using my voice and actions with care.

 In Botswana, I learned about forgiveness, forgiveness for myself and others. I have learned even more, that things are not always what they appear. I have learned patience, humility and how to ask for help. I have learned about love and heart break how to survive through it all. Through it all, I have learned about me. Peace Corps’ slogan is “ the toughest job you will ever love” the Marines say that bootcamp is to break you down then build you back up. My service in the Peace Corps was very similar, through failures and success, through tears and laughters, through 9 hour bus rides in 100 degree heat and learning how to find joy in the small things. I am a stronger woman because of it.

Poet Mary Oliver said “don’t worry things take the time they take. How many roads did St. Augustine walk before be became St Augustine.” Things in Peace Corps take the time they take, while a hard pill to swallow, we are strong because of it. We have all walked many roads in our services—through the twist turns and bumps in the road we have grown, blossomed and spread our wings.

Through is all, none of us would be here without our families. Our real family, our cohort family and our Peace Corps family.  

It is customary to end speeches in Botswana by shouting “pula”

PULA!



Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Cha-cha-cha-changes


I haven’t written a blog post in months, mainly because I felt like I haven’t done anything for months. However, that is a complete lie. A lot has happened in the past few months and my lack of posting is due to the fact that I am still processing everything.

I left Lehututu on October 14th and moved to Gaborone to start my “3rd year”

My closest friends went back to America to continue on with their lives while I remained behind. You know that empty feeling when you break up with your significant other? I felt like that. I just broke up with 20 people all at one time.

As I was struggling to adjust to “city life” my friends were struggling to adjust to life back in America. We were all in dark places just on different sides of the ocean. In my mind, my transition wasn’t going to be that hard--I was still in Botswana--so how much adjusting is needed?

So long hiking spot! 
I was completely wrong, my life was turned up side down. For the first month, I wished I hadn’t extended....Then things started to change, I bought a bike, joined a gym and found some footing in my new job. We put on a summer camp for 60 plus kids and I made new friends....









My new bike! 
 I am on my month long home leave, in this past month, I feel that I have lost everything that I worked hard to build. This time 7 days from now, I will be on my way back to Botswana. I don’t know how I am going to muster the strength to get on that plane. This trip home has been wonderful and horrible all at the same time. I have had meaningful conversations with old friends and cried in bathrooms over things that will be funny in a few years.








I do have exiting things in my life--like my new shower head. Ain’t she a beauty! Hot water too! Even a pool! And I don’t have to go outside to go to the bathroom...or even pee in a bucket anymore!


Gaborone is beautiful too...in its own way. I don’t have chickens waking me up at 3am on the dot every morning. I can go have coffee with friends or happy hour on Fridays, watch movies or go shopping with out lugging my months worth of groceries home. With all the wonders of city life, I am no longer Bonolo, leaving behind that identity was (and is) bittersweet.